Seasonable Cacklings
Early hatched chicks, those out in February and March, require more care than May hatched
chicks, yet the early ones are the fastest growers during warm spring weather and they
are always well matured till fall and the pullets ready to begin laying. The cockerels
from such hatches can also be marketed at good prices early in the season. For most
ordinary purposes, the month of April is the time to set eggs, as they will hatch and
grow lustily during May. And a good start is half the battle, always. Leghorns,
Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Reds and Orpingtons will mature for winter
layers if hatched in May. Brahmas, Cochins and Langshans will grow well if hatched in
May, but for winter layers they should be out a month earlier. We cannot say too much in
favor of the standard brands of prepared chick feed. They save time, make stronger
chicks, and in every way are more satisfactory than home-prepared foods. Above all, they
are certain in results. Young chicks should not be fed before they are forty eight hours
old. Sometimes it is best to wait sixty hours.
The digestive apparatus of the chick is completed after hatching and not before; hence, as
the yolk is absorbed just before pipping, the chicks have plenty of nourishment for thirty
six to sixty hours. Give grit a little while before the first feed, and water a little
while after. Every breeder of poultry who has not already got purebred stock, should make
a start in the right direction within the next month or two by buying eggs for hatching.
In planning to do this, it would be the part of wisdom to begin looking around at once.
By placing your order a week or two before you want the eggs shipped, you may then be
sure of having the eggs at the time desired. Beginning with the first of April a large
number of buyers want eggs shipped, and those who get their orders in first are the ones
that will get their eggs quickly and on time. Eight chicks is a good hatch from fifteen
eggs that have been shipped any considerable distance. If you get that many, do not get
grouchy at the breeder who furnished you the eggs. Reliable breeders never ship out eggs
from pens that are not testing well in their own hatching, yet it is often the case that
these very same good eggs will be so roughly handled by the express companies that the
shipment has to be duplicated by the long-suffering breeder. This is the breeder's side
of the story, and it has not been exaggerated. The buyer has all the advantage in that if
he buys of a reliable breeder, poor hatches will be duplicated at half price or all
infertile eggs replaced. In this way, the buyer is perfectly safe and sure to get
results.
There is no doubt that the mash feeds composed of ground corn and oats and bran (seasoned
with cut alfalfa or clover), is a good thing on the bill of fare for the laying fowls,
but during the breeding season do not feed too much of it to the hens that you are
expecting to produce youngsters to maintain your flocks. Rather, feed such breeding birds
mostly dry grain, scattered in a deep litter, giving them once a day a light mess of
steamed alfalfa or clover cut into edible lengths, sugar beets, small cabbages, or other
such vegetables which may be handy. An occasional feed of mash will not harm breeders,
but where they are forced too much with hot mashes and condiments the fertility and
strength of the germs in the eggs is always impaired. If your hen house is clean and has
been well cared for during the winter, it is scarcely likely that mites are very numerous
this early in the season.
However, it is the part of wisdom to commence getting ready for them, as they will soon
make their appearance after the weather begins to warm up. Body lice are always present
in greater or lesser tiumbers, as cold weather does not affect them, being where they can
utilize the body warmth of the fowl. So it is a good idea at the present time to buy a
"powder gun" and some lice powder and go over the fowls with it. Clean out the nests
every few weeks and fill them with clean nesting material (preferably excelsior), packing
it well into the corners of the nest box if you are going to set hens in them. Every hen
that is allowed to incubate should be well dusted two or three times while setting. Thus
she will not be annoyed by the pests which would make her more or less "fidgety" were
they allowed to multiply. Moreover, if the old hen is free from vermin while the chicks
are hatching, the little fellows will get a good start without being pestered by the
vermin. Body lice gather on the chicks as soon as they are hatched, especially around the
head and wings. A little lard dropped on the baby chicks' heads and well rubbed in will
keep the head lice down and the chicks in a thrifty condition. Try this plan. Use only
pure lard and not too much of it, but rub it well into the down on the chicks' heads.
THE SCRATCHING SHED A Scratching shed is most important to the poultry
business. In dry weather leaf litter in the woods would serve instead, but not otherwise.
All grain should be fed in dry litter, and straw is perhaps the best. The scratching shed
may be built in connection with the roosting house, but not so as to receive the
droppings of the fowls. Again, it may stand adjoining, or near, where the fowls may enter
at once as they come from the perches. The shed should have one side open to the south and
the other three closed in with boards or strong cloth screens that may be hooked up to
give air on proper occasions. The litter should be kept fresh and clean and plentiful. In
the same room may be the dust bath and receptacles for sharp grit. A small amount of food
will keep the fowls scratching for hours and thus employ them under cover, away from
inclement weather.
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