How to Raise Chickens
 
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Seasonable Cacklings

Early hatched chicks, those out in February and March, require more care than May hatched chicks, yet the early ones are the fastest growers during warm spring weather and they are always well matured till fall and the pullets ready to begin laying. The cockerels from such hatches can also be marketed at good prices early in the season. For most ordinary purposes, the month of April is the time to set eggs, as they will hatch and grow lustily during May. And a good start is half the battle, always. Leghorns, Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Reds and Orpingtons will mature for winter layers if hatched in May. Brahmas, Cochins and Langshans will grow well if hatched in May, but for winter layers they should be out a month earlier. We cannot say too much in favor of the standard brands of prepared chick feed. They save time, make stronger chicks, and in every way are more satisfactory than home-prepared foods. Above all, they are certain in results. Young chicks should not be fed before they are forty eight hours old. Sometimes it is best to wait sixty hours.

The digestive apparatus of the chick is completed after hatching and not before; hence, as the yolk is absorbed just before pipping, the chicks have plenty of nourishment for thirty six to sixty hours. Give grit a little while before the first feed, and water a little while after. Every breeder of poultry who has not already got purebred stock, should make a start in the right direction within the next month or two by buying eggs for hatching. In planning to do this, it would be the part of wisdom to begin looking around at once. By placing your order a week or two before you want the eggs shipped, you may then be sure of having the eggs at the time desired. Beginning with the first of April a large number of buyers want eggs shipped, and those who get their orders in first are the ones that will get their eggs quickly and on time. Eight chicks is a good hatch from fifteen eggs that have been shipped any considerable distance. If you get that many, do not get grouchy at the breeder who furnished you the eggs. Reliable breeders never ship out eggs from pens that are not testing well in their own hatching, yet it is often the case that these very same good eggs will be so roughly handled by the express companies that the shipment has to be duplicated by the long-suffering breeder. This is the breeder's side of the story, and it has not been exaggerated. The buyer has all the advantage in that if he buys of a reliable breeder, poor hatches will be duplicated at half price or all infertile eggs replaced. In this way, the buyer is perfectly safe and sure to get results.

There is no doubt that the mash feeds composed of ground corn and oats and bran (seasoned with cut alfalfa or clover), is a good thing on the bill of fare for the laying fowls, but during the breeding season do not feed too much of it to the hens that you are expecting to produce youngsters to maintain your flocks. Rather, feed such breeding birds mostly dry grain, scattered in a deep litter, giving them once a day a light mess of steamed alfalfa or clover cut into edible lengths, sugar beets, small cabbages, or other such vegetables which may be handy. An occasional feed of mash will not harm breeders, but where they are forced too much with hot mashes and condiments the fertility and strength of the germs in the eggs is always impaired. If your hen house is clean and has been well cared for during the winter, it is scarcely likely that mites are very numerous this early in the season.

However, it is the part of wisdom to commence getting ready for them, as they will soon make their appearance after the weather begins to warm up. Body lice are always present in greater or lesser tiumbers, as cold weather does not affect them, being where they can utilize the body warmth of the fowl. So it is a good idea at the present time to buy a "powder gun" and some lice powder and go over the fowls with it. Clean out the nests every few weeks and fill them with clean nesting material (preferably excelsior), packing it well into the corners of the nest box if you are going to set hens in them. Every hen that is allowed to incubate should be well dusted two or three times while setting. Thus she will not be annoyed by the pests which would make her more or less "fidgety" were they allowed to multiply. Moreover, if the old hen is free from vermin while the chicks are hatching, the little fellows will get a good start without being pestered by the vermin. Body lice gather on the chicks as soon as they are hatched, especially around the head and wings. A little lard dropped on the baby chicks' heads and well rubbed in will keep the head lice down and the chicks in a thrifty condition. Try this plan. Use only pure lard and not too much of it, but rub it well into the down on the chicks' heads.

THE SCRATCHING SHED


A Scratching shed is most important to the poultry business. In dry weather leaf litter in the woods would serve instead, but not otherwise. All grain should be fed in dry litter, and straw is perhaps the best. The scratching shed may be built in connection with the roosting house, but not so as to receive the droppings of the fowls. Again, it may stand adjoining, or near, where the fowls may enter at once as they come from the perches. The shed should have one side open to the south and the other three closed in with boards or strong cloth screens that may be hooked up to give air on proper occasions. The litter should be kept fresh and clean and plentiful. In the same room may be the dust bath and receptacles for sharp grit. A small amount of food will keep the fowls scratching for hours and thus employ them under cover, away from inclement weather.

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